Cream to Powders

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Creme to powders are hot pours that are usually anhydrous and usually poured into a pan. Cream to powders are also called wet dry foundations. It feels creamy in the pan but when you apply on the skin it leaves a powdery, light weight feel. Creme to powders always have a liquid (can be silicone, oil, ester, etc), wax, and powder/pigments. Using hydrophobic materials are desired because there will be less issues with bacteria and less color changing issues.

Thin oils and silicone are best to use in this formula. In order to have the powdery after feel, you need a large amount of powder in the formula. Usually there will be as much as 15% TiO2 and several percent iron oxides. In addition, you want to have 20-25% of fillers or microspheres. A large size microsphere will give more of a powdery feel. Always add microspheres at the end. Using surface treated materials will help you to load a high level of powders because oil absorption will be reduced. Be sure though that you are not adding so much powder that the wax structure is negatively affected. You want good structure. Because you have waxes, you want to make sure there is no sweating in the cream to powder. Absorbent microspheres will help to prevent sweating.

Here is a basic formula of a cream to powder:

Phase	%	Ingredient
A	13	Pigmentary TiO2 (treated)
A	6	Mica
A	0.33	Yellow IO (treated)
A	0.33	Red IO (treated)
A	0.1	Black IO (treated)
A	0.1	Methylparaben
A	0.1	Propylparaben
B	29.04	Propylene Glycol Dicapryl/Dicaprate
B	17	Dimethicone
B	9	Ozokerite Wax
C	25	Microsphere
	100

 
Blend Part A until the color is fully developed. Heat Part B while mixing. Add Part A to Part B and mix until homogenous. Add Part C and continue to maintain temperature. Continue to mix and and then cool down a bit and pour into pans.